Catching Up With History



Al Badger (r) and Al Badger Jr. (l),
owners of The Golden Pheasant
from 1940 - 1962.
Photo courtesy of Al Badger, III



Two more stories have been published over on SideDish about Dallas Food History. Story #3 is about a man named Eltee Dave, who despite an early life of poverty worked very hard, becoming a Dallas barbecue legend. From the 1940's through the 1970's his Dave's BBQ (near the old Love Field) and Dave's Places (various locations) is still remembered by those who ate his cooked meats.

The 4th story was inspired by a foreword written by Caroline Rose Hunt in Dallas Is Cooking! (Renie Steves, 1992) where she remembers her favorite restaurants during downtown Dallas' golden age. Digging into the history of The Golden Pheasant restaurant revealed an almost 50 year old treasure, three families owned and worked the restaurant from 1915 until 1962 before it was sold to a man who'd lost his previous restaurant in a fire. Bad luck struck again in 1964 when a fire took down the financially failing Golden Pheasant, killing 4 Dallas firefighters when the building collapsed. It remains to this day the worst loss in the Dallas Fire Departments history and befitting the background of an early 1960's Dallas, mob connections, hit men, and murder.

Enjoy!

Finding Ida

Published yesterday on SideDish is the story of Ida Chitwood, a lady known to hundreds of thousands of women in the early 20th century, forgotten to all but her family today. I "met" Ida when I wrote a story on TDCB about pecan pie, little did I realize that finding Ida was also in a sense about finding myself. First, let me clarify, I know who I am, senility has not yet set in. But in the last two years, since the oldest went off to college and the youngest got her drivers license, "what's next" had been rattling around in my brain.

And it was tied into the writing I was doing on this blog. Repeating "what am I doing" as I formulated posts unpublished, the question sealed those stories in my memory instead of here.  So instead of posting about an incredible week in Napa, I read the autobiography of Elmer Scott. Instead of posting about Sevy's new One Pot Braising sauce, I sat for hours in the UT-A library looking at microfiche of the Fort Worth Star Telegram. My new Friday evening pastime (when hubby was at work) was logging into the Dallas Historical phorum and reading the memories of my neighbors. Or sometimes it was scavenging Ebay and antique stores for old postcards and cook books.

But I still couldn't formulate what it was I was trying to accomplish. It took almost two years of researching Ida before the breakthrough came, and when it did, it set a course of what I needed to do. Just as Ida's breakthrough came from the most simplest of Google searches (duh, why didn't I think of it earlier), my purpose was as close to hand.  I needed to find these old stories of people and favorite eating places - put the pieces together and share them, before they were gone forever.

Because food is large part of our cultural history. While not a native, research has shown to me that Dallas has had over the last 150 years some of the most progressive dining in the country. One that goes with our culture, not with cities on the east or west coast. Other transplants would disagree, writing "Dallas feels to me as though it may just be beginning to blossom into a serious food city."

To which I can now reply, "Been there. Done that."

Extra Credit Where Due

Yesterday the second installment of Dallas food history was published over on SideDish, it is about an amazing woman named Ida Chitwood, who in the 1920's, 30's and 40's rocked the nation with her free cooking demonstrations. We're not done with her story, she had a profound impact on food that is still being explored. Consider this an introduction.

These stories are a collaboration of many people, including the families who share their memories. In many ways they could not be fully told without their help. Many, many thanks for sharing.

Lookee There!

It's not that I've stopped writing, I've been working on a pretty big project over the last year actually, and the first story was just published over on D Magazine's SideDish food blog. I hope it does grow up into a book one day, but I've learned that the business side of writing is in some ways far more difficult than the actual writing. But for now it's fun, fascinating and important - my heart tells me it needs to be finished. Plus I get to work with the talented Nancy Nichols, who first pointed me in the right direction by whispering the words, "Bird by Bird."

I'll still be writing here from time to time, don't stop checking back.

Eating Reruns: How To Cook For Kids

In todays Dallas Morning News there is an article about the little leaguers at Dave Andres Ballpark in Old East Dallas and their big leaguer helpers at the Texas Rangers Foundation.  It reminded me of a story I wrote about how the Dave Andres Ballpark came to be back in September 2008.

It was the first story in the "How To Cook" series.  You can read it here:  How To Cook For Kids.

Addison Loves Its Restaurants So Much

They have an entire website so you can find them.  Brilliant.  Back to You, Dallas.

Best Cancellation By An Email Recipient Ever

Somehow, this accountant has become the internet marketing chief of Sevy's Grill.  Whatever, I hate it.  Almost as much as I hate filing and cleaning the toilet.  But we received a cancellation that made me laugh, and I thought I'd pass it along.

"In 2,753 days, when my last child goes to college, I will look forward to enjoying myself. Until then, please remove me from the constant reminders of what I am missing."

I'm sending this lady a certificate for a martini on me because she will need a break before then.

What's Up With The New Old Terrilli's?

Dunno, but snapped this shot of the reconstruction yesterday.  It's been almost a year since the fire closed down the popular Greenville Avenue restaurant.  At that same time, Popolo's at Preston/Royal had closed leaving an empty space with neighbors eager to get some Italcho's in their part of town.   My suggestion was to turn the property quickly with a Terrilli tenant, cooking up a romantic byline, Phoenix-from-the-ashes style.   Then use the proceeds from that restaurant to help build the new Terrilli's in the old location.

Nobody listens to me, it's looking like a while longer before this will be open for business, in the meantime brand loyalty erodes, competition moves in, and employees find new employers they may chose to remain with. 

And the old Popolo's space?  Still empty.  Still not generating rent.  Tick, tock, tick, tock.

Mexico: Crop Freeze, Price Increases and Unemployment

Word from produce powerhouse FreshPoint about the recent freeze in northwestern Mexico at the beginning of February when temperatures dipped into the mid-20's  for up to 6 hours:

MEXICO FREEZE: CULIACAN UPDATE:  On Wednesday February 9th 2011, Quality Assurance traveled to Culiacan Sinaloa Mexico to visit and view the impact the recent freezing temperatures had in the growing region and surrounding areas. Initial assessments after the freeze had outlined an event not seen in the region since 1957.

Produce endured low temperatures on February 3rd and 4th for a period 1 ½ to 6 hours in length at anywhere from 22 to 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures were cold enough to impact all open field (85 to 99% loss), shade house (60 to 80% loss), and green house (10 to 30% loss) grown product in Mexico.

The mass of cold air cut a swath from Mexicali to the Nogales Border down into Mazatlan and portions of Baja California San Quintin.

At the time of the freeze production in the area was in full swing from Hermosillo in the North and down through La Cruz Sinaloa along the highway 15 Corridor of Mexico. About 80% of Mexico’s production has been affected. It has been reported that in Sinaloa alone, 714,000 hectares (1.7 million acres) were affected by the freezing temperatures. An Area covering approximately the size of the States of Delaware and Rhode Island combined.

In addition to the loss of vegetables, tomato, and corn crops; 200,000 to 300,000 farm workers have also been affected by the frost. The mass migration south of unemployed agricultural laborers will begin between mid to late February as production slows in the region. Mexico’s President Felipe Calderon also visited Culiacan on February 11th, assessing the damage and pledging support in the form of seed vouchers and emergency aid.

Other highlights of the report include bad news for tomatoes (Roma quality to vary, open field tomato plantings a total loss, grape tomatoes extensive damange); cucumbers, eggplant, bell peppers (all total losses); squash (small plantings survived).  There are limited crops that were harvested after the freeze, but quality will be poor.  Time estimates for plant recovery ranges from 4-6 weeks (tomatoes), to 45-60 days (squash), 6-8 weeks (bell peppers), 4-5 weeks (cucumbers) and gone for the season (eggplant).

Plan menus accordingly.

Dallas Farmers Market Loses One Of It's Best Friends




Ida with Sevy
1996 Friends of the Farmers
Market Hoedown



 Ida Papert, great mother (Mombo), wonderful wife of the late Sam Papert, Jr, cookbook author and founding member of Dallas Farmers Market Friends passed away yesterday. She was needed elsewhere.



It’s not about how or when you die, it’s about how you live. Ida lived well. She was instrumental in organizing a non-profit way, way back in the 1990's to help support and build up the Dallas Farmers Market. From implementing the Farmer’s Hoedown fund raiser every year, to organizing and working the seasonal Chefs Cooking Series at the DFM Resource Center, to writing and selling 1000 copies of the Papert Family Cookbook whose sales enriched the market. And this was what she did for retirement.

Looking through my archives I’m finding many, many pictures of Ida, from the cooking classes, hoedowns, dinners and even a cruise we went on together over the last 20 years. After 15 years of DFM cooking classes, she wrote a second cookbook, Extra Helpings, to help fund a DCCCD scholarship endowment named after Jim “Sevy” Severson. To thank him for a good 15 years of success and friendship, but to also help finance a student’s dream of becoming a chef.

We saw her last having dinner at Suze with one of her sons, about a month ago. She looked beautiful. Frail, but appearing to be in good health, she was wearing a stylish white coat, her smile as big as ever. Hopefully that smile, and her good name will be remembered by Dallas in years to come as we miss her spirit and enthusiasm.  Rest in peace, Mama Ida.

It Was Just Like A Video Game

Fellow Texans, credit one 19 year old with ending the life of  a 200 lb. scourge, scoring his first hunting kill.  The Boy, home from college for the holiday, joined the duo of chefs Sevy and Chamberlain for a little east Texas hog hunting, leaving the house in North Dallas at 4:00 today.

As I was leaving Neighborhood Services at 6:30, post-dinner, the phone rang, caller ID tipped me off, "Did you kill something?"  I ask into the phone.

"Mom, I killed a 200 lb. hog, first shot.  I'm covered with blood."  OK, if you have a boy, you understand the excitement. 

Me, I was just as happy to stay home with Sister and watch Beauty and the Beast on cable.  Dang, now our three dogs want to know what smells in the garage refrigerator.

Whether it's pork or turkey this holiday, have a happy and safe Thanksgiving, with plenty of good shopping mixed in.

Has Anyone Been To Bill Smith Cafe?

McKinney, Texas?  Because it looks like they're serving up a healthy slice of humor.

First Taste - Crossroads Diner Has Officially Opened

I was fortunate to be invited on Friday to a mock service meal at Chef Tom Fleming's new place, Crossroad's Diner on Walnut Hill Lane just east of Central Expressway.   Out and about running errands, I stopped by the diner around 10:30, and sure enough, was welcomed to my solo table.  Sitting at the table next to mine was Meaders Ozarow of Empire Bakery, and we spent a pleasant breakfast chatting across our tables about our teenage children (she's a Booker T mom) and the restaurant business in general.  

Serving breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. until 2:00 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, the menu is extensive for both meals.   As a hard-core oatmeal afficianado I love places that know their rolled grains, their's had the requisite bite and flavor.  Crossroad's breakfast specialty is a large cinnamon roll drizzled with a delicious caramel sauce and sprinkled with pecans - I could have eaten three.  I don't review restaurants, but I will say it's nice to have a new spot in the neighborhood to visit that serves a great breakfast and lunch menu.  I'm hoping this is it, they are certainly filling a niche.



Breakfast - click to enlarge



Lunch - click to enlarge



And Now, On With The Show

Been quiet on here, I know.  Who knew ancient sewing skills, long buried, would be dusted off for help with costuming this year's musical at Hillcrest?  With two other moms, we  managed to sew 29 golden dresses for one musical number (or a total of about 90 seconds onstage), and they turned out fabulous.  This has nothing to do with food, or restaurants, but it did eat up about 30 hours of spare time that would have been used blogging, thus the post.

Art doesn't get more "local" than a great high school musical! Seats for Hillcrest High School Theater Department's final performance of "How To Succeed in Business Without Really Trying" (Saturday, 7:30) are still available, and only $10 ($12 for reserved seating). Hillcrest High School Theater Boosters would like to invite all in the community to come and enjoy the performance, ticket purchases may be made here .

As with most artistic endeavors, we rely on the support of our community. Thank you for coming to watch our show, we guarantee you'll leave with a smile.

Who Said Food Porn Is Dead?

Don't think so.  Just take a look at the 2011 North Texas Food Bank/Kent Rathbun/Central Market calendar.  13 months of pictures and recipes that will leave you wet drooling.  With photos by Pat Haverfield, Central Market underwriting and Kent's impeccable, 5-star sense of style, it's absolutely orgasmic delicious that 100% of the proceeds go to help feed the hungry.   Each month features an Elements by Kent Rathbun ingredient, and there is an accompanying coupon for purchasing same ingredient during the month.  So in a way, you get paid back for good food porn behavior.   Available November 16th at the Dallas and Plano Central Markets as well as http://www.ntfb.org/ , $19.95.

I need a cigarette and a glass of wine now, please.

How To Cook For The Guest

I read the same book twice this summer. Danny Meyer’s, “Setting the Table, The Transforming Power of Hospitality in Business” (an autographed copy no less) was a gift from the manager of Gramercy Tavern  as Sevy and I left one evening. We didn't know him, he didn't know who we were, we had only mentioned how hospitable we thought all the Meyer clan of restaurants were.  At the time I didn’t realize the core truth of the gift was what was enclosed within the covers. It’s a clearly stated vision of how empowering your organization with the key concepts of hospitality creates "excellence, success, good will and soul" for all stakeholders in a business - and he’s not just talking restaurants and hotels here.

Many of us in the restaurant industry are well familiar with the tenets of hospitality, it’s easy to think that we already know all the how’s and the why’s. But which of us cannot refine how we operate each day within our organization - especially in today's business climate? I’m just saying that this book provided a wealth of ideas for Sevy and I to apply to our own business, in our own manner - reading the book empowered us to do this. A week after returning from NYC we ordered 4 more copies of the book from Amazon.com for our managers to read.

The definition of hospitality, a noun, is: 1. the friendly reception and treatment of guests or strangers. 2. the quality or disposition of receiving and treating guests and strangers in a warm, friendly, generous way. Mr. Meyer’s definition of empowered hospitality turns this in to a verb. It is actions or behaviors towards your staff, guests, community, suppliers and investors in a warm, friendly, generous way - it goes beyond welcoming the guest at the door, serving the food they order and presenting a check. But like most policies that succeed, it has to start at the top.

There is a Dallas link in this book, Mr. Meyer recounts a dinner with Stanley Marcus who gave him some excellent advice. I could share this, and more, since I’ve read the thing (did I mention, twice?).  But truly, Mr. Meyer deserves every penny of royalties he gets off of this business guide. So I’m not going to give away his secrets, I’m only going to recommend that if you own a business - any kind of business at all - there’s something in here that will help you see how to improve.

An A & W Without Root Beer Is Kind Of Like A KFC Without Chicken

The Freakonomics economists discussed this on Marketplace on KERA this morning.

Eat Pancakes For Hillcrest High School

This has become such a fun community event for parents, teachers, alumni and students, we are very excited to announce the

6th Annual Panther Pancake Breakfast at Sevy's Grill on Sunday, October 24th.  

100% of all income goes to fund Hillcrest High School programs.  This years beneficiaries are HHS Theater and HHS Panader Booster clubs.

Anyhow, here's the deets:  Everyone is welcome, but tickets are by reservation only due to limited seating, cost is (still only) $10 per person for a fixed-menu:  fresh fruit cup, pancakes, scrambled eggs, bacon and choice of coffee, tea, milk or juice.  We will be serving breakfast from 9:00 am until Noon, to make your reservation contact AHillcrestMom@aol.com (Amy Severson) with the TIME you want to come and the NUMBER of peeps in your party.  I will save you a spot.

It's a great kickoff for homecoming week, especially since I'm not working on the PTSA Parade-gang this year (moved to fund raising, yum).   Last year we had a very large alumni group from the 1960's spread over 4 tables in the front.  They had so much fun we didn't think they were going to leave. 

Cattle Baron's Report: More Success, Less Hangover

Jeff Barker and Richard
Chamberlain

Last years Cattle Baron's Ball will go down in infamy, not for it's title, "Honor of Cowboys", but for the flood of rain that moved everyone into leaking tents, including the bands.   But at this weekends Ball, all was laughs and fun recountings, the mildewed odor of ruined leather blown away by the incredible event hosted by this years Committee.   "Need a ride home?", Taylor Allday asked the chefs, referring to the ride he gave Richard Chamberlain last year, leaving the rest of us to dig a limo out of the mud until 3 am.  Thanks Taylor, this year we all drove separately - and drank a lot less.

This years "The Great State Fair" was a brilliantly crafted showcase of all things amusing - State Fair-wise - carny games, cotton candy and an actual ferris wheel.  Mother Nature gave us a beautiful light show early in the evening with a stunning cloudless sunset, and after dark a fireworks display lit up the sky (word has it the fireworks were purchased as a gift from a husband to a wife on the Committee, but this is unconfirmed at this writing).   With the lights and the beautiful evening you could really believe you were, well, maybe not at THE State Fair, but at a small county fair, somewhere in Texas.   A small county fair with Jack Ingram and Allan Jackson providing the live music, that is.

It seemed as if the live auction bidding started out a little slow, it may have been because attendees were having too much FUN and enjoying too much FOOD (brisket, enchiladas,

Jim "Sevy" Severson, Kevin Garvin,
Richard Chamberlain

corny dogs, hush puppies, tacos) to wander over to the stage.  But by the time the annual Chefs Package came up, bidding was heating up.   This year "The BBQ Boys" as they were listed (Richard Chamberlain, Kevin Garvin, David Holben, Kent Rathbun and Jim Severson) added former Dallas-ite Kevin Rathbun, the band Collective Soul and Kosta Browne Winery to their private barbecue party for 30 people. 

And the bidding was steep, their package auctioned for $50,000, twice, adding a cool $100,000 to the over $1.5 million the Chefs package has raised to date over the last 20 years.  At the end of the Live Auction, everyone refilled their drinks before the bars closed down and meandered over to their tables in front of Allan Jackson's performance stage.   Sevy and I (not being huge country music fans) decided to beat the end-of-party rush.   Perhaps a vestige memory of last years conclusion in the back of our minds, we collected our gift bags, put the top down on the convertible and enjoyed a nicely uneventful drive home from Plano.

Alee Burger New To Northwest Dallas

Everyone in the restaurant business knows where Acemart is, even a few folks not in the industry shop there.  It's a restaurant supply store at Forest and Webbs Chapel where you can buy anything from aprons to a cotton candy machine.   On my way in I noticed a "Grand Opening" sign hanging over the store next door, Alee Burger, who claims to make the "Best Burger In Town" and "We Don't Make Until You Order".

I didn't have a chance to check that claim being short on time so I'll leave that verification to a local reviewer who's the "expert" on burger food.  But the salesgirl at Acemart said the burger she had was great.  So there's that.  They have 13 different styles, plus a Turkey Cheeseburger and a Vegetable Cheeseburger, and 10 different sandwiches, nachos, salads and Kid's Baskets.

At $4.25 for 1/2 lb. burger, it seems like a great deal.