Diary Of A Daycation

A few weeks ago Sevy mentioned he wanted to drive out to East Texas to pay a visit to Strube Ranch, producers of Wagyu beef, also known as American Kobe.   Their ranch is near Pittsburgh, and we decided to make it a scenic day, driving out on Highway 80, sticking to the small towns like Terrell, Wills Point, Grand Saline.  Eventually, when we hit the piney tree forests of East Texas we were going to cut north, skirting the west edge of Lake O' the Pines.

Chefriend Samir was having a birthday in a few days, so we decided to stop at Bob Well's Nursery in Lindale to pick up an olive tree as a gift.  Nobody was there when we arrived, so we called the phone number on the door.  Bob remembered us!  But he'd just had shoulder surgery and was laying low, so he told us to just take the tree we wanted and leave a check on the desk.  That's good country friendly.  He had many varieties of fruit trees in stock if you're looking, his prices make it worth the drive.

We arrived at Strube Ranch offices, located in a tidy metal barn surrounded by pastureland and encircled by miles and miles of red fencing.  And cows, lots of cows everywhere.  Meeting us was Tia Strube Ables, daughter of the founder, J. Larry Strube a "wildcatter" of wagyu when it was first developed in Texas, going to Japan and bringing back full-blood Wagyu semen during a window in time when exports were allowed.   Tia drove us all over the ranch in her truck, she was good country friendly.

They carry two grades of meat, Mishima and Gold,  scored using a Japanese BMS system grading the visual marbling of each piece of meat.  On their 2000 acres at any one time there is typically upwards of 5,000 cows, calfs and bulls.  They are fed minimally processed grains with no hormones or antibiotics, and are allowed free roam of the countryside, not caged inside barns during Texas heat.  About a year before they are to be butchered they are shipped to "select Iowa feedlots to be fed for 350 to 400 days in an all-natural, sheltered, low-stress environment".

About 80 percent of their product after processing is sent to the Chicago and New York City markets, including Kosher.  The 10 percent that does not grade "Prime" is shipped to different processors, but not sold under the Strube name.  According to Tia, a few years ago her dad was convinced that there could be a strong local market for his excellent beef, so he invested in a refrigerated truck and started visiting chefs and restaurants.  They do not use distributors, and supply a number of area buyers, including Rosenblatt Meats, Bonnell's in Fort Worth, and Chamberlain's in Addison. 

And now at Sevy's as well.  What can I say, good is good.  We've switched to their all-beef hot dogs for our All-American Kobe Beef Corny Dogs on our bar menu, we've switched to their tri-tips for our Kobe Skewers and inside round for our Pot Roast. 

So finding our way home required driving on several county roads before we came to Winnsboro, a charming town that Tia told us included a small pub tucked behind a bakery.   Hot day, cold beer, that sure sounded good, so we stopped for a snack and a couple beers at Brewbaker's Restaurant & Pub. 

We must have screamed "city folk" because owner Jeff Heath came by and introduced himself.  Formerly from the Dallas area, he bought a bakery and added the pub on the back.  On the weekends they feature live performers and bands.  Anyhow, Jeff was sure good country friendly, he sent Sevy and I some Bacon Wrapped Shrimp to go with the Pork Shank Ribs (excellent) we'd ordered. We'd put this on our "go back" list next time we're in the area.  

Continuing westward, facing the setting sun, we crossed Lake Fork, then a few miles down the road passed through East Tawakoni and West Tawakoni.  Twenty minutes later we were at I-30 and LBJ, another 10 minutes and we were pulling into the driveway.

On The Road - Cooking Up Trouble In Mexico

Well, not really, unless you count the night we spent teasing the Canadians before the Olympic hockey finals.  Then we tried to get the accordian player to go to their dinner table to play the Canadian National Anthem after their victory, really.  Unfortunately he didn't know the tune - oh well, they were having a fine time drinking dining without the accompaniment. 

This was my first foray into Mexico, actually it was the second if you include the four hours back in '88 we spent in Tijuana on our honeymoon (which was a complete letdown after having driven the entire coastline of California).  But you know what I mean, this was my first trip into inner Mexico (as opposed to border Mexico) where we could wear our Mizzou t-shirts and not worry about being thrown into the back of a car and driven to the nearest ATM with a gun to our heads.   Well maybe this could have happened and I was just too naive to realize it - I tried to ignore the jeep with the machine gun mounted on top at the Cancun airport.

We were doing a little research and development expedition with fellow restaurant owners Lisa and Richard Chamberlain into foods of the Americas, a food trend that just might follow meatballs.  And our little piece of all-inclusive Excellence heaven was located just down the beach from a small fishing village where we got a look at the various fish and fowl of the region.   The fresh fish market was a small concrete room with a window, when someone ordered something at the restaurant next door, the waiter would run to the market, buy the fish and then take it to the chef to cook.  No refrigeration, hell, no electricity.  Nor for the plucked chickens hanging from the front of another small mercado (I was riding a bike and couldn't shoot a picture at the same time).

Anyhow, I learned some pretty important things while down there - like choose an all-inclusive that serves the premium liquors and wines.   We laid down an extra dollar here and there, it was not necessary because great service came with the package, but it did go a long way towards making friends who were willing to accomodate our more outlandish requests.  And while not judging all resorts cuisine, I can point out the obvious that when in Mexico, don't eat French.  Or Asian.  Or Italian.  Eat Mexican. 

Our generous and lively attitudes, plus the fact that we quickly became "regulars", led to friendships amongst the two American chefs and their south of the border brothers in hospitality.  By the third night we enjoyed a specially-created-off-the-menu dinner on the terraza, drinking and eating guacamole, and laughing, laughing, laughing.    Sevy and Richard created the perfect cocktail and over the five days trained most of the staff how to make it, La Rana.  Just don't expect to win at Quiddler when you've had 6 or 7 of them.

LA RANA by the S & R Beverage Company
Glass with ice
Fill to 1/3 - 1/2 with Absolut Mandarin
Splash of orange juice
Splash cranberry juice
Squeeze 2 lime wedges
Fill with club soda

Whether or not you're in Cancun, a few of these will have you feeling feliz como una lombriz.

More News on the SA CIA

Heard back from Chefriend Dr. Victor Gielisse about the future plans for the San Antonio Culinary Institute of America (they call it CIA, SA - but SACIA translates from Spanish "to satisfy", so I prefer my way).   He says "the location is fantastic and we believe we have a real opportunity being in Texas to grow and extend the CIA Brand".   Gosh, San Antonio, Riverwalk, great food, Schlitterbahn - I'd go to school there!

I'm not sure that there is any other culinary school in the middle of the country that offers the extensive programs the CIA does.  Looking up culinary schools shows the top of the list located either on the left or right coasts.  So should this venture become a success, it would be a real draw for students to San Antonio - with most graduates likely looking to start their careers in the Texas region.

This also marks the CIA's efforts to recognize and elevate Latin foods to the stature of other cuisines, the growth of the Latin restaurant market has been strong with 33% of ethnic restaurant sales (Asian 32%, Italian 25%, Technomics survey).  In some cities up to 63% of foodservice workers are Hispanic, and their working trend is moving away from menial jobs to leadership positions.  

Further, there has been a gap between consumers interest in Latin American foods and their education in the nature of these dishes.   Many "traditional" recipes have been changed as they migrated North, but the original dishes are of value educationally.  Teaching preparers and diners in these subleties will raise the standards for foods of Mexico, South and Central America.

Based on the low number of Hispanic culinary leaders in the country (as compared to the large number of Hispanics in the workforce) this program can help elevate future Latin American chefs to a creditable level of competence in their native cuisines.  Currently the 30-week certificate program offered has a goal of 50% Hispanic student enrollment, so far 75% of the students who have been through the program are Hispanic.

So what is this 30-week certificate, anyhow?  It is

designed to blend a love of cooking with culinary discipline and fundamentals creating an opportunity for aspiring chefs to develop the skills hey will need no matter the type of cuisine they ultimately cook.  The program includes courses that are equivalent to the first year of education at the CIA and is taught by chefs from the CIA in Hyde Park and Greystone.

Now, about the location, 22 acres along the banks of the San Antonio River.  Plans are to transform it into an urban village with retail, restaurants, art galleries and traditional open air produce mercado.  And an events facility and the Center for Foods of the Americas.  Visiting chefs from top restaurants in Latin America.   San Antonio I hope you are drooling over how delicious this could be!

Culinary Institute of America Cooks Satisfaction in San Antonio

In the early 1980's Jim worked at Cafe Pacific, it exposed him to a new level of food and helped him decide that his career needed a more formal education (thank you Jack Knox).  So at the "late" age of 26 he enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America, requiring a two year commitment to living around Poughkeepsie/Hyde Park, New York.  Back then most of the top culinary schools in the U.S. were either on the left coast or the right, and for those in the middle it required moving to one or the other sides of the country.

I was not enrolled, I just hung out and listened, drank beers with the group at Augie's, (occasionally) snuck into the school Cafeteria, and participated where possible (basketball cheerleader chant:  Mirepoix, Mirepoix, Roux, Roux, Roux.  Chop 'em up, Dice 'em up, Throw them in the stew!).   It is a group-based educational process, and Jim's two-year group was an amazing mix of people from around the states and the world, they spent more than just classtime together.  I like to say we "took big bites of life", we were poor but managed to travel, to enjoy and explore food and life together.

For those not familiar with the educational process by which this school trains their students, I could recommend a great book that details the expectations and sacrifice it takes to earn a degree from this institution.   It was (back then) a mix of old-school "hands on" European apprenticeship (up at 4 am) with modern educational techniques, textbooks, tests.  But also stressed with the classical learning was the training to see food as an art form, visually and flavorfully, and to keep innovating the shape of that form.  They strive to teach the love of the art, as well as master the technique of the art.

Word came last night via Lucian LaBarba that there is a new branch of the CIA now open in San Antonio.  Financed by a very large ($35 million) donation from a SA gentleman, Christopher Goldsbury wanted to take the "This stuff's made in New York City!" chant to a new level.   His four year campaign finally convinced the school that the city of San Antonio could well represent the Center of Foods of the Americas.  His donation helped finance the San Antonio site (which currently has a 30 week program), establish a program of Latin Food studies at the Hyde Park campus, and provides full 2 and 4 year scholarships for those who finish in the top of their San Antonio class to continue their studies in Hyde Park. Longer term plans for the SA campus is for expansion into a degreed program for it's students.

I wonder if they know their initials, SACIA translates from Spanish, "satisfies" or "to satisfy"?  How fitting.  According to their website,

Located at the gateway to Latin America, the CIA, San Antonio attracts a unique blend of students: future chefs, food lovers, and established culinary leaders. Through educational programs our goal is to elevate Latin American cuisine to its rightful place among great cuisines of the world.

Set among restored 19th century buildings once part of the Pearl Brewery, the CIA, San Antonio campus is as diverse as the culinary world itself. Located on the San Antonio River just north of downtown, the 20-acre Pearl Brewery site is developing into a exciting center that will be filled with cafés, schools, lofts, services, and events. The CIA classrooms and kitchens are state-of-the-art, dedicated to real-world experiences, creating an ideal setting for learning.

A strong Dallas link to the CIA is former restaurateur/chef (and now Associate VP of the Culinary Institute of America) Dr. Victor Gielisse, C.M.C, C.H.E..  Many Dallasites remember Victor's restaurant, Actuelle, a 5 star world-class restaurant he owned with his wife, Kathryn and partner Clive O'Donoghue back in the late 1980's.   Both of his cook books, Cuisine Actuelle (by Victor) and In Good Taste, A Contemporary Approach to Cooking (co-authored with Kathryn and Mary E. Kimbrough) are in The Collection.  Hey Victor, old buddy, we've got lots of interested students here for the school, as well as some excellent scholarship opportunities - let us help get the word out!

With over 35 chef graduates from the CIA in the Dallas area, what a fun time we could have!   Road trip on 281 anyone?

September Santa Fe Siesta

For many years I would visit my seventy-something-year-old mother in Santa Fe in September. She didn't live there, but would annually load her dogs into her Toyota and drive west from Michigan to satisfy her hunger of all things Indian and Georgia O'Keefe. I've been there several times with my husband as well, but my favorite month to visit this town is definitely September. The days are still long and warm, but cool at night - one year there was even a snow storm that covered the mountaintop. And it's a fun city to visit for those short on dollars and time, there is no surcharge on viewing the beautiful buildings and mountains, only the Pueblos do that.

Everyone is on a budget these days, and the great thing about Santa Fe is that it is a drivable distance from Dallas, if you enjoy a beautiful 9 hour road trip (well the first hour and the last 3 hours anyhow). While there are some wonderful hotels on the square that charge top-dollar, there are many others in the city that are very inexpensive. Shopping on a budget can be satisfied at Jackalope or try the downtown Five and Dime, they have some very unique mementos you can load in the car to take home. If you're willing to splurge a little more, check out the jewelry being sold by the Indian vendors on the square, or in Ortega's which also has some delicious clothing. Or as an alternative, the Museum of Indian Art & Culture is having their annual book sale on September 12th this year, they sell donated art and antique books at incredibly good prices.

If you're looking for a more cultural tour, then plan for a gold rush of food, art and architecture. If you're driving out to Santa Fe, along the way listen to the CD of 109 East Palace by Jennet Conant, a recounting of the development of Los Alamos and the founding of the nuclear bomb. When in Santa Fe, you can actually enter the store that now occupies this address, it's pretty much untouched by time. The drive up to Los Alamos is one of the most beautiful, winding steep drives you'll ever experience. While Santa Fe has a Farmer's Market, the one at the top of the mesa in Los Alamos is much, much better. You can visit many of the sites in the book while there too. On your way out of town, the main street looks like it drops off the edge of the earth, you can look across the valley and see Santa Fe tucked up against it's mountain.

Another wondrously beautiful drive is down the Turquoise Trail to Madrid an artists enclave and home of an incredible honky-tonk bar (on the bend in the road, look for all the Mercedes in the parking lot). Next to their parking lot is a row of little houses, each has a different boutique shop, it's a great place to shop for birthday gifts.

Food? Well I've previously recounted my experience of dining at 8 restaurants in one day. All I can say is if I can do it, you can too - it doesn't have to be exactly the same way. There are a multitude of small, local places like Maria's where you can enjoy a strong margarita and freshly made tortillas. Or enjoy a homemade pizza and an inexpensive glass of wine at Piccolino in remodeled fast food building out on Agua Fria, another local favorite. Just remember small bites at each place, limit your alcohol if driving, and take a siesta mid-day, after all this is Santa Fe!

So lets say you can take off in the early afternoon on a Friday, you could be having dinner in Santa Fe! Then spend all of Saturday and Sunday enjoying the city and it's culture, leave for Dallas after brunch on Monday and still have time to relax at home before returning to work.

It could happen.

On The Road - Where I Would Eat In Boston Again, and Again

As I mentioned before, we made a quick trip to Boston and had a great time eating while we were there. Here are some of the highlights.

Regina's Pizza was worth the 45 minute wait in the rain, and I'm married to a guy who will not wait - usually. Located in the North End, that's all they sell, pizza, no salads, no desserts, only pizza. OK, so you can get a nice pitcher of beer there too, the wine selection is limited and adequate, but who cares - it's about the pizza.

Toro, a Spanish tapas restaurant rocked our world. Their menu is extensive, using only the finest ingredients, except we all were a little puzzled at their house specialty corn (on the cob) . For being prime corn season, it was amazingly small kernels, but that may be due to their preparation methods. It wasn't the best thing we had there, but it was pretty darn good.

Fajitas and Ritas near Downtown Crossing was a quick stop after a 5 hour flight and hunger pangs in everyone's stomach, it was within a quick walk of our hotel. Not bad, it had an unusual system of ordering food and beverages, the waiter gives the guest a checklist for them to fill out their order. For a chain not located in the Southwest, it was pretty good food. Tucked in next to them was Brattle Book Shop, located in an old 3 story house with an open air lot full of books marked down to $3-$5, bonus!

Wagamama is a small local chain of Asian fusion, mostly noodle dishes. We went to the one at Faneuil Hall, sat on the patio and watched the street performers that draw crowds to the area. By the time our noodles were ordered, delivered and eaten we watched a guy strung upside down in a straight-jacket, contort his way out and end up right side up.

Lambert's was a small grocer/deli on Tremont Street across from the Commons. We just stopped in for limes, but wish we'd purchased some sandwiches there to picnic in the park. We instead dined on leftover pizza from Regina's on a bench by the Swan Pond, but there are many great sitting areas within this beautiful setting, and be sure to walk the Freedom Trail, it begins here.

We had a late lunch bayside at The Barnacle in Marblehead after our outing of lobstering. It is a truly local place with a charming hotel attached, heavy fresh seafood emphasis on the menu, however I had a BLT (I don't eat fish or seafood), but the setting was beautiful, it reminded me of Mackinac Island in Northern Michigan.

We took a cab out to Cambridge and enjoyed a family dinner at Grafton Street across from Hah-vahd Yahd. It was very lively even at 10:00, the open windows along it's front fed from the energy of the street and vice versa. It looked like a nice local place.

We also went to a Tuscan Italian spot in the North End, Antico Forno Pizza Restaurant, it touted it's gnocchi which is one of those foods in my "must eat" rolodex. Our waiter tried to convince us on another dish, we should have listened. Unfortunately, the pizza and pasta were pretty good, the gnocchi was just OK, and the service, well I think we insulted him when we ignored his advice. I pinned 2 $1 bills on the Saints collections strips just in case.

While we were up there a huge controversy ensued - not just Gates vs. Crowley, but Mike's vs. Modern for Italian pastries. While we had one lady at Starbuck's swear by Modern, we had six people recommend Mike's so we waited in line (in the rain) to purchase a box of four pastries. Let me just say, that whether or not Modern is better (since we didn't compare we couldn't say for sure), it could only be by a minutely incremental amount because Mike's was downright damn good.

Best thing I had in Boston? Why it was at the Red Sox game, they have TWO flavors of cotton candy, I tried both, and they actually had flavor (unlike our Ballpark) of cherry and blueberry. And their peanuts were the best I've had in the last 4 years of baseball games, it was amazing how fresh they were compared to those we get here in Dallas. What's up with that? Kevin?

Sex a la Lobster (Note: This Contains NO Adult-Only Content)

Courtesy of lobstermen Captain Bruce and hunky First Mate Fred aboard the F/V Hannah Mary, they were kind enough to take our group on the bay to show us how lobsters are harvested from the approved hunting areas.

Sorry about the poor camera shots, it was done with a regular Nikon camera, and the boat was bumpy, and there were all these lines and plastic tubing to navigate around. That having been said, it was the Cleanest Boat Ever, and a great lesson on the hard work these men do to make a living.

I can only imagine that this title will result in the most google hits ever to my blog.

Back From Beantown

The family went up east to visit our seafood purveyor, Steve Connolly Seafood who ships our seafood fresh, overnight to Sevy's as well as to many Dallas area restaurants. It was a great time, the temperatures were blessedly cool, yet the high humidity kept it from feeling chilly (most days). We fed the swans at the Swan Pond in the Commons, ate twice in the North End, took in a Sox game, sat oceanside at a park in the South End. We were all enthralled with the history, the cuisine, and the traditions of this fine city.

I came home with 5 new old cookbooks, and there's some great seafood recipes going back to the 1860's. We had some of the best restaurant service ever, Kitty (aka Kirsten Amann), who introduced us to the organization, Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails, or LUPEC (Boston Chapter), whose mission statement is "Breeding, raising, and releasing nearly extinct drinks into the wild". I'm going through my oldest beverage books to see if I can send them a few they don't already have.

Learned a few new things, things like: noodling, wolffish, how to tell a boy lobster from a girl (film coming soon), how to pronounce Gloucester, Regina's has the best pizza in the world (sorry Lou), and wearing a Texas Rangers shirt is not so smart when they sweep the Red Sox in all three games. I don't think we had a bad meal the entire time, and while I don't review restaurants, I'll be sharing later the list of places that we'd go back to again.

281 Reasons To Drive To San Antonio

What do you get when you put two 15 year old girls, a laptop, headphones and three seasons of CSI Miami on DVD in the back seat of a car for a 5 hour drive? Silence. But to be fair to Sister, only the day before we'd driven 9 hours from Columbia, Missouri to Dallas, so she was a little road weary. Not me, I couldn't wait to get on the road, because I love the drive south - no, no, no, not the drive on I-35, the drive on Highway 281. Most people believe that because you stop in several small Texas towns along the way that it is longer trip - every time I've gone this way (non-stop) it's taken 5 hours flat, which is about the same as the interstate, just delete the semis and the crazy drivers.

And the towns are the point of this ride. They have some great treasures, from antiques to food to historical significance, even the smallest communities have something of interest to look at as you pass by. For those not in a rush, spend an entire day stopping along the way - it's really a hidden Texas jewel of a road trip.

From Dallas you head south on Highway 67, passing the ugly monolithic Midlothian cement plants, dusty and dry structures plopped in the land of flat. But beyond, the scenery becomes more beautiful beginning with the semi-arid plateaus that emerge from the rolling prairies in Glen Rose. Turning south to catch 281 in Hico the landscape becomes more agricultural, hay was being harvested, cattle, horses and goats are plentiful. The hills become taller as you approach the "lake region" around Marble Falls, a beautiful town on the west end of Lake Travis. Between the lake and San Antonio is the Pedernales, and their hilly beauty is accentuated with the rivers Comal and Guadaloupe winding within.

And food? This route could be an orgy for Texas gourmands: BBQ, jerky, bakeries, cheese makers, a chocolateria, fruit stands. And for those willing to go off-roading a bit, shooting off to the east and west of 281 are the Texas wineries in Llano, Wimberly and other small towns. Also olive farms are in abundance in the region as discovered recently when researching where to buy one for my backyard.

Yikes - I need to set this up as a food tour for others looking for an agri-licious experience!

Maybe you too collect aged items related to food, well US281 has the density of antique stores to keep even a quick shopper busy for a week. And some years there are nesting bald eagles over towards Llano that can be fun for those who love bird watching. Looking for a higher activity level? There's tubing or canoeing - you can rent equipment on the Brazos river in Glen Rose or choose between the Colorado, Comal or Guadaloupe rivers in south Texas.

Ultimately you come to San Antonio, and we took advantage of the summer's special rate at Hotel Contessa, $129 (weeknight rate, as advertised in this months DMagazine) for a suite in a beautiful hotel located along the river. Our room overlooked the "marriage island", one of several small islands with over 150 years of history. Additional costs at the hotel include $30 per night valet (pretty standard to pay for parking in downtown SA), and $10 per night for Internet connection (or you can use their business center computers for free). But hey, they stock Aveda products in the bathroom, the rooftop pool is amazing (especially at night), and their bar knows what a "healthy" pour is.

During the days we went to Seaworld (very hot) and Schlitterbahn (hot, but who cares if you stay in the lazy river all day?). Seaworld was having an internet rate special as well, adult tickets were lowered to the kids ticket price. I thought the $2 we saved online for Schlitterbahn was good, until I realized that we could have saved another $10 per pass by purchasing them at the HEB down on the corner in New Braunfels (or any located in the Austin/San Antonio region - just not Dallas, we don't have HEB in Dallas).

At night, all the riverwalk restaurants were just a block away, our customary first evening meal at Casa Rio did not disappoint. You can even combine the river boat tour with an evening of dinner, they have several "dinner boats" that feed you while you learn about the city's history.

On the road trip back north, we stopped at a fruit stand between Marble Falls and Blanco, I'd noticed the large peach orchard next to it and had made a mental note to return. McCall Creek Farms - this place, out of all the others is the one I would return to again and again. Peaches, tomatoes, melons, peppers, okra, home canned and home baked items, homemade vanilla ice cream made with chopped peaches folded within. Total spent $71, but we left with a car full of eats.

Now here's my really helpful hint, Hamilton has a state trooper's headquarters, and they take the 70 mph speed limit on that stretch of road very seriously. They'll be warning you too if you're going too fast.

Hunting For A Quick Getaway

Hot in Dallas in late June, hot in Glen Rose as well, so why not be hot out there? "There" being Rough Creek Lodge, where friend Gerard Thompson is Executive Chef over this upscale hunting resort approximately 1 1/2 hours southwest of Dallas. It's a quick trip that transposes you from the "citified" green North Texas to the cusp of the desert southwest, with semi-arid plateaus arising from the ravines that mark the northern end of Texas' Hill Country. This is the Texas of the 1800's, the Chisolm trail, and on the drive out you'll pass by more than a few longhorns.

Rough Creek Lodge sits at the base of Chalk Mountain, quite a distance down a county road that continues seemingly forever until you turn into the resort entry. A long and beautiful drive across the rolling grounds, over four dry creek beds and around the lake, you arrive at the limestone building, modern, yet fitting of the starkness of it's setting.

While built primarily as a hunting resort/lodge it is no less a luxury hotel with an emphasis on 5 star accommodations in every respect. It is quintessential boutique: small, elite, with a purpose that services the upscale hunting niche. Or the guest who wants to get away to a world-class resort within a close driving distance of Dallas.

An exclusive hotel with only 51 rooms, the initial reaction to the room rate of $270 per person (based on double occupancy - essentially $540 per night for two) may elicit a slight gasp. But the price includes such things as a three-course dinner, a full gourmet breakfast the next morning, and the list of included resort activities is impressively lengthy.

Unlike a recent San Antonio stay which charged an extra $30 per night for parking and $10 for Internet access, about 90% of the activities are included with the nightly rate (among the extras - spa services, horseback riding, small charge for skeet shooting for ammo and clays). And they invite people to continue their stay even after checkout time, offering to hold their bags until they choose to leave the lake or pool, this stay could conceivably be stretched into two days and one night.

After check-in, everyone in the family had their eye on a different activity. Since it was over 100 degrees, mine involved (air conditioned) antique shopping in Stephenville, 20 minutes down the road. Sister was treated to her first massage, she declared afterwards it was glorious, then she enjoyed their large pool and water slide. The Boy and his Dad used the resorts guns to shoot skeet, then utilized their fishing boat for a little "catch and release". We all met up back in our amazing accommodations, all rooms face the north/north-east and overlook the lake and as the sun set the temperatures began to drop as hubby and I enjoyed a bottle of Chardonnay we'd brought along.

The restaurant's dinner menu is based primarily on product that is in season, chef Gerard is a California native and loves to utilize the freshest ingredients in his cuisine. I can't do his cooking justice, and I don't review restaurants, so I'm just going to post the entire menu for that evening - just remember it changes:

Starter: Grilled Texas Quail (Beluga lentils, Tasso ham & sherry maple glaze), Pan Roasted Hudson Valley Foie Gras (black pepper biscuit, shaved parma proscuitto, house made Texas peach chutney), Peach Barbecued Gulf Shrimp (Anson Mills grits and sun flower sprouts), Iron Skillet Seared Rare "Kobe Beef Sirloin" Tostada (tomatilla sauce), Poblano Pepper & Cheddar Cheese Soup (smoked duck-sweet corn fritter), Oak Grilled Wedge of Romaine (tomato caper relish & romano cheese), Warm Baby Spinach Salad (hard cooked egg, oak grilled mushrooms, red onions and mustard vinaigrette).

Main Course: Potato Crusted Halibut (oak grilled locally grown zucchini, warm heirloom tomato saffron vinaigrette and radish micro greens from the green house), Bourbon-Molasses Soaked Moulard Duck Breast (goat cheese-asparagus "mac & cheese"), Hard Wood Grilled Pork T-Bone (wild flower honey-chipotle chile whipped sweet potatoes and spinach roasted over the oak grill), Oak Grilled Filet Mignon (caramelized onion whipped potatoes, roasted asparagus, charred tomato-red wine sauce and aged black garlic), Black Pepper-Lime Marinated Hanging Tender Steak (house smoked bacon-sweet corn hash & tomato chutney).

Desserts: Valrhona Chocolate Glazed Chocolate Pound Cake (peanut butter ice cream), Vanilla Bean Banana Pudding (crisp phyllo & ginger caramel sauce), Warm Texas Pecan Pie (bourbon molasses sauce and vanilla bean ice cream), Baked To Order Texas Peach Cobbler (vanilla bean ice cream and peach ginger-lime sorbet).

Enough about the food, except that they grow their own herbs and greens in their green house, and except that we porked out on the breads that they make in-house (as well as all the sorbets and ice creams). In fact, we had no room for dessert by the time the course came around, and requested it "to go", which they informed us would be awaiting us in our room. And it was. A sign of the exemplary service they offer, reinforced the next morning when they called the room to let us actually know that brunch was ending - and we'd been missed so they just wanted to be sure we knew. The boys had gone out for more fishing and the girls were eating dessert for breakfast, but the call was very much appreciated.

From the blazing bright stars in a moonless sky that accentuated the ruralness, to the deer that wandered in the strip of land between the hotel and the lake the next morning, we were transposed to another Texas, close but not Dallas, if only for one night.

So why else read this useless blog, unless to get some extra inside scoop. Here's what I'd suggest to stretch the most out of your stay, this is the kind of place that will accommodate if they can. If you are staying on a slower evening, say a weeknight in late July or August - at check-in you may want to see if they'll upgrade your room to one of the Presidential suites, it can't hurt to ask. Or at dinner, ask if the excellent breads are available to take home, we left with a goodie bag of 3 different breads and two kinds of cookies for our drive. It was almost gone by the time we arrived home.

DISCLOSURE: We didn't get free accommodations, but we did have an "employee rate" based on the chef-brethren relationship (and many years of dining at RCL over the years). I don't think they even know I write a blog, nor was it ever discussed. I in no way altered the delightfulness of our stay in order to convince people to visit this wonderful place. I think I'm pretty sure, anyhow.

On The Road - Points North, South, East and West

Travel over the last month has consisted of quick family getaways, but they've all had two things in common. The car and the heat. Some destinations, like Van, Texas (east) and Columbia, MO (north) were definitely not food related, but points west (Glen Rose) and south (San Antonio) were about the food as much as the mini-vacation.

After this week's airplane mishap I'm beginning to see hubby's aversion to flying, friendly skies or not. Besides, we're more "it's about the ride than the destination" folks. I could easily see us in semi-retirement with a little traveling home, equipped with a little Combi Oven and a wood-burning grill, going from fishing spot to fishing spot around the country. Well, maybe after college tuition for both kids have been paid.

Hot, hot, hot, of course my theory is that wherever we go it is going to turn hot. In a couple weeks I'll be putting that theory to the test. IJS, regardless of the forecast, Boston, break out your summer clothes.

Halfway Between Here and There

Halfway between here and where? Last week Sev & I had a little overnight getaway and while on the road he was very excited to treat me to his latest restaurant discovery (Thanks Kevin!), the Dairy Palace in Canton, TX.

I've been asked several (hundred) times "What do chefs like to eat?", and this place has the home-style menu. The most expensive item is the Catfish & Shrimp Plate at $11.89, they also have a Salmon Burger ($8.99) and a whole section of "Great Tasting Mexican Food" that includes a Supreme Fajita Wraps (with "East Texas Chicken or West Texas Beef") as well as 12 different (World Famous) Hamburgers.

"Country Breakfasts" (served 24 hours a day) include classics like the #5, Chipped Beef On A Shingle ($3.59) or the #8, Chicken Fried Steak-N-Eggs ($6.39). Along an entire side of the restaurant is the Blue Bell Ice Cream Center, with over 36 flavors like "Black Walnut", "Cake Batter" and "Cotton Candy".

As many times as I've been to First Monday Trade Days, I've never noticed this little place off of I-20, usually I take the exit before. But when we pulled into the parking lot (adjoining the gas station on the corner), it was unmistakeable that the Dairy Palace draws quite a crowd.

This place has quite the following with Dallas chefs too following a certain pig hunting getaway. And I have to concur, it's a treasure of a spot that the big city just can't afford to offer. And not only did Sevy and I stop on the way there, but we stopped the next morning on the way back, too.

Jackpots are relative, I'd like to say I had a winning hand with this find.

Darioush

One word. Rolling out from my lips, the end is said with a sigh. Like a modern, mystical palace from Middle Eastern lore, you are transported from the turn onto the drive to the winery. A row of fountains shoot water 30' into the air and palm trees line the drive and building to complete the opulent oasis. A regal name and place for a winery striving to create a perfect nectar for the Gods. If this sounds overly dramatic, it's not, this one winery, Darioush, was the highlight of our entire trip - two months later and it's still a topic when we get together with the others.

Darioush Khaledi, a prince of grocers on the west coast, built his winery fulfilling his dreams as a young immigrant from Iran. The Persian influence is seen in the architecture and in the exquisite selection of the retail items: textiles, art, books, clothing and jewelry. I've always said nothing sells high-quality merchandise like a glass or two of wine first, his marketing brilliance obviously extends beyond produce.

And Darioush "the man" was every bit the elegant and gracious host, obviously successful yet warm and personable, it isn't a surprise that he's built a great empire. How romantic is it that he named his (in my opinion) finest wine after his wife, Shahpar - a beautiful wine for a beautiful lady as it appeared from the oil portrait that hung in the dining room. She was not in attendance, but joining us for dinner was Dan De Polo (President) and la belle Nathalie Vache both of Darioush Winery, and Dan Ha from Vineyard 29. With wines like these we could have been happy eating straw, but our hosts had kindly catered a dinner worthy of such an experience.

Preparing our dinner for the evening was Richard Reddington, Chef/Owner of Redd in Yountville, and in between courses we went around the table sharing our histories one by one. I cannot recount the exact stories, but the emotional flavor still lingers. Our meal, with wines follows:

FIRST COURSE
2006 Darioush Russian River Chardonnay

Carnaroli Risotto, Maine Lobster Meyer Lemon Confit, Truffle Olive Oil

SECOND COURSE

2006 Darioush Signature Pinot Noir

Sauteed Skate, Pumpkin Chanterelles, Chestnut Sage Butter

THIRD COURSE

2005 Darioush Signature Shiraz

Liberty Farms Duck Breast, Celery Root and Quince Puree, Swiss Chard Crepe, Huckleberry Jus

CHEESE COURSE

2005 Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon

DESSERT

2004 Shahpar

Redd's Chocolate Cake

As I mentioned above, my favorite thing all evening was the Shahpar wine served at dessert, it's flavor exceeded memories of my last taste of Chateau d' Yquem . While the romance of the name can be credited to Darioush, the romance of the flavor was created by winemaker Steve Devitt.

After dinner, we headed back to the various guest houses at which we were staying - we would be on the road by 5 am to head down to San Francisco International Airport. After the flight, all of the chefs were cooking at the March of Dimes "Signature Chef" fundraiser down at the Fairmount Hotel, with only enough time to shower before. Our trip was over.

Last Day In Napa - Buehler and St. Helena

It was Tuesday morning, our last full day in Napa. Scheduled was a wine and cheese pairing at Buehler Vineyards, up Howell Mountain Road - way, way, way up Howell Mountain Road - wait, not that far. After missing the turn off from a narrow road to a narrower road, we finally arrived, a little queasy from the drive. Our host, John Buehler, Jr. confessed that when his (grown) children were teens, he had the body shop programmed for direct dial.

We came to Napa post-harvest, when most grapes were going through the stages of processing prior to being barrelled. John gave us a wonderful tour of the working mechanisms of a winery; the presses, the filtering, the bottling operation. Located in the Conn Valley, a remote, rolling hills area where agriculture meets the natural land, the silence and natural beauty provided a feeling of comfort and peace.

Poured for our pleasure was their 2007 Napa Valley Zinfandel, their 2005 Estate Cabernet and the 2006 Papa's Knoll Cabernet. How do I remember this? It's on the receipt - had some shipped back to the house for more enjoyment later. Winemaker David Cronin has been working with Buehler since 1993 after having developed Dolce for Far Niente. They are open by appointment only, but it's worth a call to set up a time, and it's worth the drive - just watch out for that turn off.

After the tasting, the Cattle Baron's "group of eight" headed off to the airport. We had an open invitation to visit Gundlach Bundschu, but the ladies had been patiently awaiting some shopping time. So the boys went one way, the girls headed to St. Helena, a small-town-main-street-All-American kind of place. And the shopping was great - multiple types of stores and not just high end merchandise. Don't miss Sunshine Foods, part market, mostly gourmet shop. I purchased crackers and tapenades there that were made by local producers and hauled them all the way back to Dallas. The boys must have done a little shopping as well, a week later a case of Gundlach Bundschu Chardonnay appeared at our door.

None of us are shop-a-holics, so we were done in less than 2 hours. Taylor's Automatic Refresher beckoned (not a drive in, you eat at tables and counters outside) always with a line of people waiting to order at the window. Known for their milkshakes (Chocolate, Vanilla, Strawberry, Espresso Bean, White Pistachio, Mint Chip, Black & White), they also have an extensive list of wines by the glass. We stayed until it was time to meet the chefs for our final dinner in Napa, at Darioush Winery.

This is post #7 of the "series" written about our trip to Napa for the Cattle Baron's dinner. If you've missed any of the others, you can link to them: THE Dinner at Markham , Luncheon at Nickel & Nickel , Cooking In Napa , One Evening In San Francisco , Destination: San Francisco's Ferry Market , and Speaking of Napa - Another Cattle Baron's Dinner . Bon appetit!

THE Dinner at Markham

Many requirements affect the site choice for the chef-prepared dinner: location, facilities, availability, staffing, but the biggest, most important for a meal of this caliber is - the "Wow" factor. Markham Vineyards delivered that, and beyond, as the host location for the Cattle Baron's auction dinner. Part vineyard, part art gallery, they were featuring a photography exhibition of Baron Wolman from his years at Rolling Stone Magazine. And the host, Bryan Del Bondio, President of Markham took everyone on a very personal tour of the winery, sharing the history of Napa - he is third-generation of a Napa winemaking family.

Each of the six chefs were responsible for one course of the dinner (except Amador, who made the reception canapes and the cheese course). While this sounds like a "light" duty, the amount of attention given to their one dish: from course conception to ordering (and hand selecting) the finest ingredients to ensuring the proper equipment is available, each chef is competing to put the best-tasting dish on a plate. Then there is the coordination with the vineyard about the wines to be paired, of course all from the host winery.

The chefs and their spouses were privileged to join the purchasers of the package, it was served in the barrel room of the vineyard, a table set for perfection. As the chef's finished their courses, they too came to the table to enjoy the fine wines Markham was pouring. The menu, as follows:

Reception (by Amador Mora)

Ginger & Basil Salmon Confit (garlic aioli), Citrus Poached Shrimp (homemade chipotle remolade, Skewered Figs (kalamata olives, sundried tomatoes, balsamic caramel sauce)
Domaine Carneros Sparkling

First (by Kent Rathbun)

Buttered Poached Lobster (parsnip puree, tangerine fennel "soup")

Markham Chardonnay, 2006

Second (by Jim Severson)

Jumbo Nantucket Shoals Diver Scallop (heirloom tomato salad, lemon tarragon cream)

Markham Sauvignon Blanc 2007

Third (by Kevin Garvin)

Farm-raised Pheasant "Confit-style" (braised savoy cabbage, pearl onions, roasted garlic crostini)

Markham Pinot Noir 2006

Fourth (by David Holben)

Oven-roasted Buffalo Tenderloin (squash risotto, lavender honey-glazed chestnuts, cipollini onions, foie gras butter)

Markham Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Dessert (by Richard Chamberlain)

Warm Espresso Molten Cake

Markham Merlot 2004

Cheese Course (by Amador Mora)

Soumantrain Burgundy Walnut Timbale (brown butter), Marinated Goat's Milk Gouda (warm chimay cherry chutney, toasted crostini)

Markham Petite Sirah 2004

This was the purchasers' final evening in Napa, not only was it memorable, but the guests left with mementos - very large bottles of Markham Merlot, autographed by the host and the chefs. Maybe it was the wine, maybe it was just the great time we shared, but after dinner the chefs offered to prepare breakfast for them the next morning. Afterwards we would all be meeting up at Buehler Vineyards for a wine and cheese pairing, then our new-found friends were headed to the airport. Our group, however, had one more evening in Napa - and one more incredible meal to go.

Luncheon At Nickel & Nickel

Life on a vineyard can sound so romantic, but one Texas family's account in todays Wall Street Journal is a less than glamorous tale. And according to the same article, the average price of a Napa home in 2008 was $608,258 (down from $860813 in 2007), it's a very expensive place to live. But still there is a small-town quality to life in what is, after Disneyland, one of California's top attractions. Our host for lunch, Dirk Hampson, moved to Napa as a very young man, and recounted many stories of growing grapes and raising his family in Oakville.

Located on Route 29 in a charming house, Nickel & Nickel is the sister winery to Far Niente (famed for their dessert wine, Dolce), and features all single vineyard wines. They recently completed installation of a vintage barn, originally found on the east coast and transported, re-constructed, to compliment their Victorian themed winery. Which is where we were served a delicious lunch prepared by chef Abimael Martinez:

Smoked Tomato Bisque with a seared Day Boat Scallop ('06 Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay, '06 Searby Vineyard); Duck Leg Confit Salad with roasted Yukon Gold Potatoes ('05 Harris Vineyard Merlot, '05 Suscol Ranch Merlot); Slow Braised Osso Bucco with Polenta ('05 C.C. Ranch Cabernet, '05 Branding Iron Cabernet, '05 John C. Sullinger Cabernet, '05 Vogt Vineyard Cabernet); Green D'Anjou Pear Clafouti with Dulce de Leche sauce ('04 Dolce).

It seems like great quantities for lunch, but portions of food and wine were all moderate - it's about tasting the flavor combinations.

Cooking In Napa

A person called my husband one day and said "Heard you and some chefs were paid $XX,XXX to cook a dinner in Napa." Well, that's not exactly how it works. A group of chefs, who also happen to be great friends, several years ago began donating a chef's dinner package for the American Cancer Society's annual Cattle Baron's Ball. Always with a different twist, it's one of the premier live auction items for the guests to bid on, and helps raise a great deal of money for cancer research and support for cancer victims. Oh, and the chef's get $0 - they (or their companies) entirely underwrite (or get donated) their portion of any travel and food for the dinners.

In May, the chefs cooked for a group of 10 at a 25,000 square foot, $100 million dollar home in Aspen (the purchasers had the house for the weekend), this was sold at the 2006 event. At the 2008 Cattle Baron's auction, the package was a multi-chef Country Barbeque for 30 of your friends at your ranch (or home). But the 2007 package, Dinner In Napa was an extroardinary multi-day eating, drinking, laughing time for a group of eight, and included lodging at an exclusive resort and a private plane ride to Napa. Not for the chefs - for the purchasers - the guys flew coach and stayed at various vineyards that generously provided guest houses for them to stay at. And this year the chefs brought their wives along, we are all connected to the restaurant industry in some fashion as well.

The people who bought the package weren't exceptionally wealthy from appearances; four couples, three of whom had employment connections and one of whom was a relative from New York. But one in the group was fighting cancer, and when it hits that hard, you realize the time to enjoy truly amazing things is limited, and they all had a passion for good food and wine.

The posts that follow are a recounting, winery by winery of our few days in Napa.

One Evening in San Francisco

For pro's in the food business, it's torture to be in a food mecca - a city where the abundance of talent and availability of excellent product are fused - and only have one night to eat. On the way to Napa to cook the Cattle Baron's dinner that had been auctioned in 2007, Sevy and I, with Lisa and Richard Chamberlain had booked one extra night for the city on the bay. From the moment we sampled produce at the farmer's market earlier in the day, our taste buds were on "flavor speed".

I was working with a new camera and before I left Dallas Sister showed me how to take the multi-shot photo of SPQR, above. Unfortunately I didn't learn quite enough, almost all of the food close-ups turned out blurry. But I did take notes on things we liked - their dishes were amazingly simple yet delicious. On the list of "Things We Would Reorder" (or TWWR for short) were the brussels sprouts with garlic and capers, a charred heap of caramelized flavors; the beets with ricotta and slices of crostini to spread it on; and spinach with chantrelles, lightly sauteed and served with a lemon slice on the side. Located in the Pacific Heights, this is a tiny, tiny charming Italian restaurant.


We also grazed at Slanted Door, located in Ferry Plaza on the Embarcardero. Chic, Vietnamese cuisine and crowded with people willing to wait 1+ hours to dine. We were very lucky to catch a group leaving the bar and happy to watch the energy of the restaurant and sample their fare from there. TWWR were the Vegeterian Spring Rolls, containing a quality tofu and an excellent peanut sauce; and their Five Spice Duck was also memorable. But the waiter recommended their house specialty and he was dead on with that - Niman Ranch Shaking Beef had me practically licking the plate.

Also on the Embarcardero, on Pier 1 1/2 (tho' we didn't dine there) was the newly opened Peruvian spinoff, La Mar, which I envision as having the happiest chefs in town - they certainly had an amazing view of the bay. If we'd had one extra night we would have tried it. And I took a picture of their stuffed pepper waiting to be delivered to some lucky diner - it was the only food shot that was not blurry.